One of the most common cosmetic mistakes we make is using the wrong facial care product - we asked two dermatologists how we could find the right one.
Finding the right facial care: two dermatologists reveal how to choose the right moisturizer
It is difficult to put in one article the definitive guide to choosing the right facial moisturizer that we use every day. Every skin is different and has very special requirements that should be specifically assessed. However, there are some general recommendations that can help us to minimize the risk of mistakes and to choose a cream that is tailored to our needs, provided that the skin is healthy because a prescription from a dermatologist is more than mandatory for diseases. "It is difficult for us to diagnose what type of skin we have.
In general, we tend to think that when the skin looks shiny, it is oily and when it is flaky it is dry, but this is not always the case. In many cases, inflammation and dryness are synonymous with excessive oil production, which is why I always recommend seeing a dermatologist for a correct diagnosis of what skin you have. It is a mistake to call the skin oily, dry, combination skin ... The skin is either sick or healthy, and it is always necessary to work out a correct diagnosis of the skin and comprehensive management in order to turn the diseased skin into healthy skin. In my daily clinical practice it happens very often that patients come to me after they have made many mistakes, spent a lot of money, and visited several offices or consultants who are not dermatologists and do not have extensive knowledge of the skin as an organ ", explains the dermatologist and expert in cosmetic facial surgery Natividad Cano.
It makes less and less sense to choose creams based on our chronological age (the one that is on our identity card). The age lines in classifying creams are blurring to focus on the needs of every skin regardless of age. So the point is to judge the skin by its biological age (which it really reflects). The fact that it is not a determining factor, however, does not mean that chronological age cannot guide us: "Age is not always the 100 percent correct path. Children's skin, as a rule, is a skin that is more prone to dehydration, they do." is drier because the sebum glands are not activated until puberty and thus tend to produce oil. During puberty, the skin is usually oily. When you get to 30, the skin starts to change, and then we tend to say that we have combination skin because we are still producing fat, but there is a loss of lipids, the amount of fat created by hormonal changes, and we start to notice drier areas and more oily areas (the T-zone) After 40, the skin becomes drier or at least has a greater tendency to dry out. And more mature skin, over 50, tends to become dry due to menopause, "explains dermatologist Elena Martínez from Clínica Pi lar de Frutos. While generalizations can be made, the expert insists that other factors are important in the choice, including skin type and current condition.
Dehydration is one of those temporary conditions our skin can go through, whether it's oily, dry, or combination-prone. "This condition can be treated and it can affect all skin types. Dry, combination and oily skin can be dehydrated because it is a general lack of water. This condition can cause an uncomfortable sensation of itching, stinging, and tension Dry skin can peel dehydrated skin, not the large flakes of dry skin, but it peeled off easily. More than pale skin, which is typical of dry skin, dehydration gives a dull and dull complexion, "explains the expert at Clínica Pilar de Frutos.
Natividad Cano has already explained to us that classifying skin according to traditional typologies (oily, combination skin, or dry) can be misleading, as there are factors that we can associate with dry skin - such as inflammation or dryness - and those on the other can be synonymous with excessive oil production. However, there are certain characteristics or more general indicators that can refine our search for a cream depending on the tendency of our skin. This is how Dr. Martínez:
We basically insist on assessing the cross-section of the skin, not just looking at whether the skin tends to be dry or oily. But as a general recommendation to avoid mistakes, Dr. Martínez these basic tips:
Although the level of the retinol concentration must be adjusted in each case, Natividad Cano generally praises the advantages of this active ingredient when choosing a moisturizer. "Retinol is a cell regenerator and a stabilizer of the skin barrier function. It promotes the process of the formation of new, healthy skin, and at the same time the elimination of the previous skin, the skin that we do not want, the skin that we want to change. It creates one new skin that has luminosity and homogeneity, in short, healthier skin that is transformed into beautiful skin. Retinol not only improves the skin on a superficial level, but it also favors the formation of collagen and elastin, the components of the supporting tissue of the epidermis This is reflected in the improved smoothness and firmness of the skin. Every skin benefits from this component in different concentrations and with different dosages, "explains the expert, who recommends using moisturizers with a low concentration of retinol along with vitamin C during the day and light protection. At night you can use highly concentrated and highly tolerated retinol.
Creams are not magic bullets and therefore need to be given time and an average of six weeks to see results. In the case of moisturizers, we can see these effects more quickly, especially in the sense of well-being they create in our skin at the time of application. Indeed, if we use an unsuitable cream, we will see it quickly. "If the skin is prone to irritation and the cream is not the right one, the effect occurs immediately. That means, if it goes wrong, you can see it from the beginning, the skin becomes red and tight, with a stinging feeling," emphasizes the expert of the Clínica Pilar de Frutos.
The function of the moisturizer is to hold the water in our skin so it doesn't dry out. However, when we need to treat specific problems, it is necessary to first apply special active ingredients in the form of serums or other extracts that help treat wrinkles, lack of luminosity, or blemishes, and then moisturize.
Whether a cream works for us is not so much a question of the brand or the price of the cream, but rather the active ingredients and the ability to adapt to our skin type. This is why dermo-cosmetic prescribing is so important. This is why pharmacy creams are a good option for dermatologists. "We know what components they have, at what concentration, and they are safer. Not all expensive or newer creams are the best, so the price should not be an incentive to choose a cream: There are very good inexpensive creams for some skin and not others. And the same goes for high-priced creams, "says Dr. Martinez.