Always perfectly round and shiny in the photos, curls of hair in real life are more often synonymous with frizz, sheepskin, and maxi knots! Morgane Brisson, founder of the Curl Bar in Paris, gives us all the tips for perfect curly hair.
With the return of natural hair this spring 2021, curls and other waves are making a comeback. Problem: curly hair is dry and rebellious by nature, which greatly complicates its maintenance. “The bulb of the curly hair is tilted: this is what creates the movement when the hair grows. These curls prevent the sebum from spreading from the roots to the lengths which make them both brittle and dry. »Explains Morgane Brisson, founder of Bar à Buckles, a hairdressing salon dedicated to curly, frizzy, and frizzy hair. The biggest problem with curly hair?
Their lack of hydration makes them dry and dull. “Worse, the twisting of the curls lifts the scales at each turn which creates numerous cracks and weakens the hair. She continues. On arrival, curly or frizzy hair gets tangled up a lot because the raised scales cling to each other. So despite these difficulties, follow all the pro's advice for peppy and shiny curls.
We always focus on nutrition and nourishing textures to heal dry hair, and it helps. But above all, we must avoid aggravating the hair dryness with too aggressive washing care: "It is not the shampoo that makes the curl but it must be soft so as not to damage the waves: we choose it therefore sulfate-free. »Recommends Morgane Brisson. But the secret is that the hair is hydrated as much as possible "For a curl to be well defined, we favor the duo of glycerin and aloe vera to hydrate without weighing it down with formulas that are too rich". explains the scissor pro.
Even simpler tip: a water spray that also moisturizes throughout the day, to rewet them and facilitate the application of styling creams and gels afterward. And be careful when using curlers because the heat dehydrates them: in this case, avoid thermo-protective treatments but treat the hair before and after with nourishing formulas.
Once the curly lengths are well hydrated, they can be contoured to smooth their rebellious scales with masks and oils, alternately. “The idea is to alternate the hydrating and nourishing formulas so that the curls are both supple and strong. »Advises the specialist. This is what will allow you to form pretty curls without them getting tangled. "It is absolutely necessary to avoid silicones which give good results on shine and smoothness at the start but trap the hair fiber in a cellophane-type film which accumulates over applications and then prevents the active ingredients from penetrating" warns the founder of the Loop Bar. To us shea butter, vegetable oils, and natural formulas!
In the opinion of all specialists, it is at the styling level that everything is played out! The curls and waves can not do without moisturizing styling creams without rinsing that promote flexibility that guarantees the roundness of the curl. “Our favorites are styling jellies to keep hair waterlogged all day and keep curls bouncy. The advantage is that they can be applied without moderation and without cardboard effect, especially when the formulas are natural like aloe vera gels "shares the curl specialist. It is also possible to use in addition - or instead - a so-called dry vegetable oil of the grape seed type to provide shine. "But avoid shea or jojoba: too thick, they weigh down" warns Morgane. The ideal is to use brands dedicated to curly hair.
The insider tip is the satin and silk pillowcase: these very soft pillowcases do not absorb water like cotton, and therefore prevent both the hair from becoming dehydrated during the night but also -and above all-that the curls do not get tangled. As a bonus, the same anti-dehydration effect for the skin: no more pillow marks when you wake up! Last tip and not least, on the same principle, by adopting microfiber drying towels, you can dry curly hair more quickly and without friction, in order to preserve the scales and thus avoid frizz.