The mission of the tiered cut is clear: It should make the hair fall fuller and looser at the same time. Compared to in the past, layers are no longer worn with hard transitions, but in the form of a much more subtle technique, often as a barely visible break between the lengths or only specifically in certain sections of the hair.
Such modern, almost invisible step cuts, if they are adapted to the natural hair structure by experienced hairdressers, can achieve grandiose effects: straight lengths get movement, fine hair falls more voluminous and thick, full manes lose their weight.
"Every hair can be optimized with the right levels," emphasizes John Frieda's London Senior Stylist Andreas Wild. "The only important thing is that the hairdresser adjusts the technique to the natural predisposition of the hair and cuts it to match the shape of the face." The professional explain here exactly how this looks and which hairstyle is suitable for which hair:
Suitable for: normal to thick hair.
Technique: “With model Emily Ratajkowski, the hair was traditionally graded in the lower part. In addition, the layers are cut extremely soft, which makes them look fuller and fall nicely, ”explains the hairstylist Andreas Wild. The trick, so that the hair still looks full at the bottom: cut the steps while dry and lift the hair slightly. "Point cutting" is what they call it, it gives the movement of the tips."
Effect: The hair not only looks fuller immediately, but it also softly plays around the face.
Best For: Fine hair or very straight hair that naturally lacks movement.
Technology: “The gradation is called 'Invisible Layers', which describes only a minimal graduation of the hair,” says the hairdresser. Often not everything is graded as a whole, but only partially shortened where there is a lack of movement. "Actress Scarlett Johansson used the technique in the front of the hair to create more curl."
Effect: “Invisible layers help the hair to fall more dynamically. Straight hair gets movement, fine hair more body."
Suitable for: Full, thick hair.
Technology: “In the case of actress Halle Berry, the structure was stepped through like a fir tree from above. The challenge with full hair is not to graduate according to scheme F, but to set the layers individually so that the proportions are right. That only works if there is really a lot of hair, ”explains the John Frieda hairstylist. By thinning out individual strands and softly colored highlights, the steps then blend invisibly into the hair.
Effect: "Removes the heaviness of thick hair and gives it a natural movement."
Suitable for: fine and long hair.
Technology: "The front section is clearly stepped up to the chin," says the professional. “To do this, the tips are thinned out like a feather einem with a razor.” Cool with actress Kaley Cuoco: a curtain fringe that merges with the lengths.
Effect: “The relatively strong gradation creates more fullness in long hair. In addition, you have strands that slip out easily when you tie your hair together, ”says the expert. "The thinning of the tips makes them of different lengths, so they don't look good, but rather beautiful."
Perfect for: Fine or full, short hair.
Technique: "With short hair, it is important to leave the top hair long enough," says the expert. “The steps are only set in the lower area, the base length stays exactly in line.” To do this, the hairdresser has to pay attention to the natural structure of the hair. "Nice to see at model Kaia Gerber: The tips were also refined with thinning scissors, which gives the cut a more casual look."
Effect: “The gradation in the lower area brings undone volume in fine, short hair. With full hair, it takes the weight off the lengths."