In 2021, the layered cut is reinventing itself: lighter, more melted, and easy to style. The stars love it… and we all want the same hairstyle! Alex Cruzel, the expert hairdresser, gives us all the tips and deciphers the ideal haircuts to have a perfect gradient.
Gone are the famous Friends "Rachel" cut and other "stepped" lengths: in 2021, the gradient is subtle to display a glamorous but natural hairstyle that sticks to the hairstyle trends of the season. Today, every hairstyle must be practical, so no woman gives in to the urge of a too pronounced gradient that does not allow her hair to be tied. In 2021, the gradient makes it possible to shape very beautiful short haircuts recently adopted by many personalities such as Monica Bellucci or Emma Watson. "We are on versatile hairstyles, raw layers, it's over," says Alex Cruzel.
For her, it is imperative to achieve the gradient slightly on the surface and especially in the mass by avoiding a taper on all the lengths which removes all their thickness and flattens the hair. Indeed, fine hair or hair without volume has turned a lot towards gradations which have made them even flatter. depending on the areas, without depriving the hair of the density of its lengths. "Explains the expert. This is what Camelia Jordana or Amel Bent get, for example, a beautiful material.
To achieve an easy-going hairstyle where the hair pulls back nicely, aim for subtlety and not wait for a change that's too sharp. "A haircut is like geometry in space, you have to work on the volumes. The gradient is then almost invisible but we obtain the desired effect of lightness ". For it to be modern, you have to ask your hairdresser for a smooth, invisible gradient that can be styled on either side and flowing. An effect that we can see on Marine Lorphelin or Meghan Markle who display fluid lengths. The hairdresser’s job is to identify the different densities in different places and adapt his scissors to them. "By giving effects in the lengths, like when making waves, the hair will be more dynamic, also shinier, and less oily because less stuck to the scalp," concludes Alex Cruzel.
The layering must also adapt to the styling. On wavy hair, the gradient will not be seen but the shape will benefit. “In general we aim for the natural. The gradient adapts to the morphology of the face and body and to the time that the client can devote to her hairstyle. If the layering is blended and respects the hair implantation, it looks good on everyone and requires little maintenance. »Specifies Alex Cruzel. On the technical side, the hairdresser strongly advises against the razor which has had the wind in its sails in the past "It rubs the hair which is twitching, it is quite aggressive, it is better to use the tip of a straight chisel to obtain flexibility and lighten the weight of the hair without shortening it. " he confides.
The fear of the upkeep of the cut is often a barrier to degrading your hair: we think that it is then necessary to re-cut it regularly. “Today, people go less often to the hairdresser so we try to make the cuts last. For that, we work on the material. What gives a nice evolution to the degraded, is the lightness. hair is placed on its own, evenly "explains the specialist of the brand Mon Shampoing. Adèle Exarchopoulos or Charlotte Gainsbourg thus sport light lengths that are a little wild.
The more the gradient is blended, the less maintenance there is on the cut side. On the other hand, the gradient is not the solution for damaged hair that must be treated: "If the long hair is damaged, it is better to avoid thinning the hair on the last 5 centimeters which would highlight the split ends." advises the hairdresser.
On the product side, the ideal is to use clean, silicone-free shampoo formulas: overly chemical formulas are poorly removed and end up forming a dull film around the hair and flattening it. Ideally, also favor formulas without sulfate, an irritant for the scalp that can be itchy. Being also very detergent, the sulfate washes out the colors. On the other hand, we can give even more relief to a gradient with reflections that will also make it more brilliant.