Oily skin is common in all age groups. Our expert reveals what to look for when it comes to cleansing, moisturizing and extra care for this demanding skin type. (For after-shopping.)
Oily skin needs moisture
Read here how to properly care for oily skin and how to avoid one of the most common problems that their owners have due to the fear of producing even more lipid: dehydration. Oily skin is widespread among the population, and not just during puberty. It is not to be equated with acne, but obviously, oily skin is more prone to the appearance of pimples and blackheads (according to Filorga every second woman between the ages of 20 and 40 has oily or acne-prone skin). For all of these reasons, it is necessary to create a clear and precise roadmap in order to learn how to care for this skin type. We do it with the help of Dr. Elena Martínez, a dermatologist at the Clínica Pilar de Frutos.
Oily skin is characterized by enlarged pores and shines all over the face (not just in the T-zone, as in this case, one would speak of combination skin). It may be prone to blackheads and pimples - the incidence of acne will increase by 60 percent over the next decade - and uneven texture.
Cleansing is the basis of care for every skin type, but the choice of suitable products is particularly important for oily skin. "You should use cleansers that are specifically designed for oily, mixed, or acne-prone skin. These types of products contain sebum regulators that help normalize or at least reduce lipid production. They also usually contain ingredients that are soothing." Effect to prevent further dryness or irritation when the skin has more inflammatory acne lesions, "explains Dr. Martínez. Usually, these types of detergents contain salicylic acid as it helps cleanse the pores in depth.
Although these types of products are most common for oily skin, there is no need to wash them with water. However, as the expert explains, it is important to achieve deep cleansing without extreme dehydration, as this could lead to compensatory hyper seborrhea (the well-known rebound effect in oily skin that is washed with astringent bars of soap). It is recommended to finish the cleaning with a toner, which - if the pores are more clogged - preferably contains salicylic acid.
The most important thing is that they are oil-free and non-comedogenic. "These products should be oil / lipid-free, that is, not fat." The texture of the cosmetics is also important. Very liquid products are best suited: emulsions, serums, gels, cream gels, or light creams that do not contain any fat.
In the morning it is advisable to use a sebum-regulating serum and a light water-based moisturizer and at night an active ingredient that improves acne and/or oil production: retinol, glycolic acid, or salicylic acid.
The fear of too much oil leads many people not to use a moisturizer at all. This is a mistake because it leads to dehydration. The key is how Dr. Martinez emphasizes the use of products that donate moisture without being greasy. "This means that they supply the skin with the water it lacks and helps it to bind the existing moisture. The star product here is hyaluronic acid," she recommends.
The layering of serums to treat various problems - very popular with Asian women - raises more and more questions for oily skin. In principle, with light textures for oily skin, you can use several products at the same time, as they should not clog the pores. However, if you want to use an ointment or a repairing balm, the expert advises applying it last and at night.
Exfoliating shouldn't be overdone, but scrubs can be used more often on oily skin. The expert recommends peeling at night on one to two evenings per week for active inflammatory acne (always with products prescribed by the dermatologist) and on three to four evenings per week for oily skin without acne. You can also use masks with sulfur (a sebum-regulating agent) one day a week. Usually, the most suitable exfoliating products for skin with pronounced pores contain salicylic acid and also glycolic acid if there are blemishes or acne scars.
Cleaning can be done manually or with a suitable tool. It is important to put yourself in good hands, as these are procedures that require experience and expertise in order not to damage the skin. Dr. Martínez advises doing it every 15 days if there are a lot of blackheads. Otherwise, every three months is sufficient. Good results have also been achieved with dermal infusion treatments for acne (a combination of dermabrasion, extraction, and infusion of sera).
Dr. Martínez speaks of less pronounced aging. "But that doesn't mean that oily skin doesn't age at all. Nevertheless, thanks to the lipids/fats that it naturally contains and that help make the skin more elastic, wrinkles are less obvious, they show up later and less pronounced. This skin type can, however, have a greater tendency to sag."